Makerbot replicator 2 extruder nozzle

You'll need easy access to the nozzles and thermal cores. Your extruder needs to be hot when you remove the nozzle -- otherwise the nozzle can break when you try to remove it. Once it's hot, insert something between the thermal cores on the two extruders to keep them oriented correctly -- we used the flat end of a utility knife -- and use a wrench to unscrew the nozzle. Be careful of the hot extruder. Don't touch the nozzle or any part of the extruder with your bare hands, make sure the Stepstruder is on a stable surface and can't slip, and work quickly -- metal tools conduct heat.

The extruder will be very hot, so be careful when you're adding the new nozzle. If you like, you can stop heating the extruder and wait for it to cool down before adding the new nozzle. If you do that, remember to heat it up again for the final tightening of the nozzle. Still holding the thermal cores in place, start to tighten the new nozzle into the hot extruder.

When the nozzle is all the way on, it will hit the thermal barrier inside the thermal core. There's one last thing you should check before you finish: Bring the platform as far up as it will go and check that the nozzles are at the same height relative to the platform. If they're not, you may have to correct them with a shim. Congratulations, and have fun printing with your new nozzle! If your models have overhangs greater than 68 degrees measured from the vertical axis for PLA Printers, then you will need to print with support material.

Supports are printed scaffolding for overhangs. You can turn on supports in MakerBot Print. A Raft helps with adhesion to the build plate by laying down an even flat foundation. Rafts are turned on by default in MakerBot Print. Completed Print Both rafts and supports are physically removed after the print is finished.

Once rafts and supports are removed, the model is complete! Shells are the outer layers that make up the surface of your prints. Adding more shells does not affect its external dimensions, but can make your object stronger. Layer Height, also known as Print Resolution, changes the surface quality of a 3D print. Low resolution means the layers are thicker, objects print faster, and the surface quality is rougher. High resolution means the layers are thinner, objects print slower, and the surface is smoother.

We suggest printing at our standard print quality. Press M to start the print. Select Exit Menu to return to the main screen. The Utilities menu contains controls for your printer and scripts for processes like loading filament and leveling the build plate. You can use Level Build Plate to walk you through the plate leveling process.

This script moves the extruder to different points on the plate, allowing you to adjust the plate height at each point. Home Axes moves your build platform and extruder to their Home positions.

If you want to move them anywhere else, you can use Jog Mode. In Jog Mode, use the left and right arrows to choose an axis and the up and down arrows to move your extruder or build platform along that axis. Jogging the Z axis will move your platform up and down, and jogging the X and Y axes will move your extruder right and left and backwards and forwards, respectively.

Run Startup Script will take you to the script that the Replicator 2 runs when you turn it on for the first time. It will walk you through leveling your build plate, loading filament into both extruders, and printing from the SD card. You can exit the startup script by hitting the left arrow, but not until the leveling sequence has begun. The menu item will change to Stop Blinking! Wait for the extruder to heat to the set temperature, push down on the extruder arm and continue to hold it down as you gently pull the filament out of the extruder.

Then release the extruder arm. If the extruder on your MakerBot Replicator 2 does not have an extruder arm, just pull the filament free of the extruder. Remove the old spool and replace it with the new spool, feed the PLA Filament through the filament guide tube.

The MakerBot Replicator 2 will start to heat your extruder. When the extruder is heated, the LCD panel will prompt you to load the filament into the extruder.

Click through the message until your MakerBot Replicator 2 asks you to press the M when you see plastic extruding. If your extruder has a lever arm at the side, push it down and hold it in place.

If you have an extruder without an arm at the side, continue to the next step. Insert the free end of the filament into the hole in the top of the extruder. Push the filament down until you feel the motor pulling it in. Wait until you see plastic start to emerge from the extruder nozzle. If your extruder has an extruder arm, release it. Watch to make sure plastic is still extruding from the nozzle. Then press the M button to stop extrusion.

If you're changing colors, you'll need to run the extruder for a few moments to clear out the old color before stopping extrusion. If you're changing materials, it can take even longer. Push the guide tube back into the opening on the top of the extruder. You can change filament during the print process to create a print with layered colors. Press the left arrow button to get to the Active Build menu, then select Change Filament. The extruder will move away from your print.

Select Unload, then replace the spool and filament as you did in the steps above. After you change the filament, select the left arrow button to return to the Active Build menu. Select the entry for Resume Print. The LCD screen will guide you through the assisted leveling routine. At each stage, you will be directed to turn one of the leveling knobs on the underside of the build platform.

Occasionally you may need to take the extruder apart for troubleshooting purposes. This is a simple process that will require no tools other than the 2. Unload the Filament from the extruder. Once any filament is unloaded, switch off the power on the MakerBot Replicator 2 and unplug the power supply.

Pull on the connector to release it from the power input port. Unscrew the two bolts at the lower corners of the fan guard using the 2. As one piece, remove the fan guard, the fan, the heat sink, and spacers. Keep these pieces together and set them aside. First we made was organizer the task for made, as Daniel, Pilar and Javier have some experiences with 3D Printers, we decided that Alvaro and Juan must to learn some things and they began with first testers. The goals within this test are to see the differences between a virtual object Vs the printed object plus the adjustments needed to build a male-female system.

The male-female systems consists of creating two different objects that join together, having one protrusion in one of them male that inserts into the other female. Therefore, we have designed two different pieces where the male varies its width in steps of 0. On the vertical axis Z having 0. On the other hand, trying out the male-female system, the results were that for a virtual 4. In other words, for a printed 4. What we learnt is that, while designing a joint, we should consider increasing the female's width gap and reducing the male's width of its protrusion in order to work with a virtual difference of 0.

The main goal of this test was to see until what angle our Makerbot Replicator 2 was able to print each layer without having problems. Instead of designing our own file, we went to thingiverse. We used first the object that Neil commented at the Week Lectures 3D printer tolerance test. To check differents parameters: The second time we print in the correct position but we had a problems with the raft.

We used this parameters:. As shown on the picture where the object is faced down, although under an angle of 15 degrees the machine has been able to print successfully every layer, the performance is considerably lower. Therefore, if you want to print something with a nice finished layer, you should not go under 20 degrees on your design.

For the last Attend Javier printed the test design with another filament in the wrong position too, but the result about the filament was fantastic and we decided to show it:.

We made too, a printed tester for calculate angles and ramps at our printer, this model was dowloaded from Thingiverse too, where you can find a lot model for callibrated, calculates and measure previous things with each 3d Printer model:.

At the maker Bot software, we prepared the file before send to our SD card. The parameters used were:. Another model more for learn how the layer height and the angle affect to the resolution. The process was really simply. We putted 2 squares in 1 sketch:. The first in plane XZ and the second in plane YZ. Finally, we joined with loft tool.

The direction in profile 1. PLA 1,75 mm Colorfabb Brown color.